A (2) Bearing support rings
B (2) Sealed ball bearings
C (2) Brake pedal spacers
D (2) Brake pedal plastic bushings
E (2) Pedal shaft bushings
F (1) Brake pedal pin plastic bushing

Even in this example the pot metal bushings are completely wore out and the clutch pedal shaft wore into the pedal assembly, but it’s able to be repaired with the ball bearing conversion kit.

1 Remove existing pot metal bushings

Grind off tabs or melt them with a torch.

Grind to expose clean metal for welding.

2 Clamp the pedal support in a vise with the sides horizontal. Hold the ring concentric with the hole. (Does not require perfection, but the closer to the center of the hole the better.)

Tack weld the ring in four places.

3 Grind two of the old plastic bushings so the flange is only about 1/8″ high.
They will be used to temporarily center the big washers perfectly on the shaft.
If you do not have old ones, several wraps of masking tape will do the job.

Install both bearings on the clutch pedal shaft and assemble so the washers are held as shown.

The spring is a shop aid I made to take the place of the brake pedal while welding the big washers in place.  It is not required, as you can just hold them against the side while you tack weld them in place.  Washers do not HAVE to be welded at all, but it does simplify assembly when under the dash…

Tack weld each large washer in two places, then file off any slag from their faces. Remove and discard the plastic bushing “tools”.

4 Test fit bearings and shaft into washers. Washer hole can be enlarged with a die grinder if needed.

Finalize the welding of the rings to the pedal support once you are certain the large washers are held concentric with the bearing retainer rings.

IMPORTANT ! ! ! ! Air cool your welds ONLY ! ! ! ! DO NOT COOL WITH WATER ! ! ! ! !

Test fit a bearing on either side of the pedal support to make sure it fits well. If it’s too tight from weld warpage, grind as required until it JUST fits.

5 Place a thin washer on the pedal shaft, tack weld, then grind the weld lower than the face of the washer.  This is not required, but I always do it so I cannot forget to put the washer on the shaft before the bearing

6 Clamp in vise as shown to ease assembly

Place two plastic flanged bushings in the brake pedal and check for fit between the two large washers

Grind the sides of the brake pedal if needed so it fits smoothly between the big washers.  Be sure to radius the tube so it does not abrade the plastic bushings.

7 Check for shaft length with brake pedal, plastic bushings and bearings in place.

There must be room for the washer so the cotter pin or clip will fit without binding.

Grind the outer flat surface of the retainer ring to obtain more roomnfor the washer.  This is rarely necessary, but if required, this is how to do it.

Washer fitment shown.  Do not omit washer or bearing will rub cotter pin.

8 Assemble all parts while held in vise.  Check pedals for proper alignment.  Use a large crescent wrench to bend pedals back to original shape.  Some are way off, some are perfect and some are just slightly off, like this set.  Minor tweaking on the clutch pedal got them perfectly straight and level.
NOTE: Cars having power brakes typically will have a longer clutch pedal so they rarely sit even like these 65/66 pedals.  Be sure the pedals are level.

9 The black plastic flanged bushing goes on the brake pedal connection to the master cylinder rod or booster.

CONGRATULATIONS! You’re done!