Technical Information

FAQs

What bearings do I use for a 69 Mustang?

69 spindles have smaller axle on all except BOSS 302 and BOSS 429.  69 non-Boss spindles use A2 and A6 bearings. 70-73 spindles have larger diameter axle and use A12 and A13 bearings.

69 non-Boss spindles use smaller tie rod, same as 67-69 Mustang.

70 spindles use a larger tie rod that is a little larger than the 67-69 spindle, but smaller than the Granada spindle.

What hubs do I use on what spindles?

Hubs and rotors from 65-73 will fit either spindle as long as the bearings that fit the spindle axle are used. The OD of the bearings is the same for all years mentioned.

So, the 70-73 spindle has larger axle but the rollers in the bearings are actually smaller than the 65-69 bearing rollers.

Will your rear brakes work on the Torino (new style) bolt pattern?

Yes.  The big bearing cobra rear brackets will work with the Torino (new style) bolt pattern using 3/8” mounting bolts and will also fit the older style large bearing 9” flanges using ½” bolts.

The brake gap needs to be 2.50”.  That is measured from the outside of the housing flanges to the outside of the axle flange (where the rotor would fit, but not including the thickness of the rotor.

Brake Pedal Idenfication

WHAT FITS WHAT…

 Brake pedals are identical between manual transmission and automatic transmission, except the foot pad part.

A pedal from an automatic car can have the foot pad trimmed to fit on a manual transmission car of the same year.

65-66 brake pedals are same for manual or power brake cars.

67 manual brake pedal will fit in 65-66 as exact replacement.  65-66 pedals will fit the 67 car.

68-70 manual brake pedal will fit 65-70 and work fine but has more side offset.  Foot pad winds up in exactly
the same spot, though. The foot pad is wider on the 68-70.

65-67 manual brake pedals will NOT fit in 68-70 car due to the wider steering column. (fits but not well)

67 power brake pedal will only fit 67 car.

68-69 power brake pedal can be utilized in 67-70 car as long as the 67-69 booster is utilized.

70 power brake pedal can be used in 67-70 car as long as the 70 booster is utilized.

70 booster cannot be used on 67-69 power brake pedal

67-69 booster cannot be used on 70 power brake pedal

 74 Maverick non-power disc/drum master cylinder with 15/16″ bore is very popular and has the clip

67-70 Mustang power disc/drum master cylinder with 1.0″ bore does not have the clip.

IMPORTANT:

On cars with manual brakes, the steel lever arm you see welded to the top of the pedal serves as a stop to keep the pedal from being able to travel back towards the driver far enough to pull the pushrod out of the master cylinder.  If the rod comes out of the master cylinder, there will be no brakes.

Most master cylinders for manual brake cars have a positive rod retention clip built into the piston.  The rod snaps in place and is very difficult to get out. MOST DISC BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS DO NOT HAVE THAT FEATURE, since they were mostly designed for use with a power booster.
When swapping master cylinders and brake parts, BE SURE there is no way the rod can be pulled out of the master cylinder, by either a positive lever stop on top of the pedal, or by positive rod retention clip in the master cylinder, or both.

64-1/2 & early 65 had this type of pedal pin.  (Brake light switch was on master cylinder instead of pedal pin)

Unique to 68 manual brakes bracket appears to have been designed to hold a switch, but was never utilized for that purpose.  Acts as a positive stop for the pedal’s upward travel.

Manual brake pedals measured 2.0″ from center of pivot to center of pedal pin for all years 65-70.

Power brake pedals measured 5.0 ” from center of pivot to center of pedal pin 1967 – 1969.  Boosters for 67-69 had curved input shaft

Power brake pedals measured 4.5 ” from center of pivot to center of pedal pin 1970 only.  Boosters for 1970 had straight input shaft

Power brake pedal 1970 only.  Note the steeper curve right below the pedal pin to clear the wider collapsible steering column.  All 68-70 pedals have that offset.

All pedal assemblies had 4 of these plastic bushings.

Two go in the brake pedal pivot.
Two go into the pot metal bushings in the pedal support.
They seldom wear out on automatic cars, but almost
always wear out on manual cars.

65-66 Pedal Support

64-1/2 Pedal support is identical except the square hole on the driver side,  where the clutch pedal stop bolts on, is a 1″ long vertical slot so the clutch pedal height can be adjusted.  That is an easy mod to add to a 65-66 by simply slotting the hole.

The 67 – 68 power brake pedal pivots from a 3/8″ diameter bolt that goes through two holes up high in the support (The pedal support on the right).
Early 67 pedal supports did not have the 3/8″ holes.  If
adding the power brake pedal, the support must be drilled. Hole location is critical for the pedal to fit properly

69 Mustang and Cougar pedal support

The 69 power brake pedal pivots from a 3/8″ diameter bolt that goes through two holes up high in the support.  The hole locations are shown by a yellow marker in the
picture. The manual brake pedal pivots from the pot metal bushings.

70 Mustang and Cougar pedal support

The 70 power brake pedal pivots from a 3/8″ diameter bolt that goes through two holes up high in the support.
The hole locations are shown by a yellow marker in the
picture.  The manual brake pedal pivots from the pot metal bushings.

Typical installation of brake pedal and stop light switch.

67-69 Midland (clamp type) power brake booster
Note curved end on the input shaft on the left.

67-69 Midland (clamp type) power brake booster.  Note spacer on front of booster where master
cylinder bolts on.

67-69 Bendix (crimped type) power brake booster.  Note curved end on the input shaft on the left.  This booster requires a spacer between the booster and firewall.

67-69 Bendix (crimped type) power brake booster.  Note curved end on the input shaft on the left. This booster requires a spacer between the booster and firewall.  Spacer is shown clearly in this picture.

1970 Bendix booster is identical to the 67-69 Bendix booster with the exception of the input rod being straight instead of curved.

If you want to add POWER BRAKES to your 65-68 Mustang or Cougar, click HERE for more info.

This template is used to modify the firewall when converting from manual brakes to factory type power brake booster on 67-70 Mustangs and Cougars.
Most important thing is the big hole for the booster must be raised up from the original master cylinder hole position.  

AS VIEWED FROM DRIVER SEAT

BBK Installation Tutorial

A (2) Bearing support rings
B (2) Sealed ball bearings
C (2) Brake pedal spacers
D (2) Brake pedal plastic bushings
E (2) Pedal shaft bushings
F (1) Brake pedal pin plastic bushing

Even in this example the pot metal bushings are completely wore out and the clutch pedal shaft wore into the pedal assembly, but it’s able to be repaired with the ball bearing conversion kit.

1 Remove existing pot metal bushings

Grind off tabs or melt them with a torch.

Grind to expose clean metal for welding.

2 Clamp the pedal support in a vise with the sides horizontal. Hold the ring concentric with the hole. (Does not require perfection, but the closer to the center of the hole the better.)

Tack weld the ring in four places.

3 Grind two of the old plastic bushings so the flange is only about 1/8″ high.
They will be used to temporarily center the big washers perfectly on the shaft.
If you do not have old ones, several wraps of masking tape will do the job.

Install both bearings on the clutch pedal shaft and assemble so the washers are held as shown.

The spring is a shop aid I made to take the place of the brake pedal while welding the big washers in place.  It is not required, as you can just hold them against the side while you tack weld them in place.  Washers do not HAVE to be welded at all, but it does simplify assembly when under the dash…

 

Tack weld each large washer in two places, then file off any slag from their faces. Remove and discard the plastic bushing “tools”.

4 Test fit bearings and shaft into washers. Washer hole can be enlarged with a die grinder if needed.

Finalize the welding of the rings to the pedal support once you are certain the large washers are held concentric with the bearing retainer rings.

IMPORTANT ! ! ! ! Air cool your welds ONLY ! ! ! ! DO NOT COOL WITH WATER ! ! ! ! !

Test fit a bearing on either side of the pedal support to make sure it fits well. If it’s too tight from weld warpage, grind as required until it JUST fits.

5 Place a thin washer on the pedal shaft, tack weld, then grind the weld lower than the face of the washer.  This is not required, but I always do it so I cannot forget to put the washer on the shaft before the bearing

6 Clamp in vise as shown to ease assembly

Place two plastic flanged bushings in the brake pedal and check for fit between the two large washers

Grind the sides of the brake pedal if needed so it fits smoothly between the big washers.  Be sure to radius the tube so it does not abrade the plastic bushings.

7 Check for shaft length with brake pedal, plastic bushings and bearings in place.

There must be room for the washer so the cotter pin or clip will fit without binding.

Grind the outer flat surface of the retainer ring to obtain more roomnfor the washer.  This is rarely necessary, but if required, this is how to do it.

Washer fitment shown.  Do not omit washer or bearing will rub cotter pin.

8 Assemble all parts while held in vise.  Check pedals for proper alignment.  Use a large crescent wrench to bend pedals back to original shape.  Some are way off, some are perfect and some are just slightly off, like this set.  Minor tweaking on the clutch pedal got them perfectly straight and level.
NOTE: Cars having power brakes typically will have a longer clutch pedal so they rarely sit even like these 65/66 pedals.  Be sure the pedals are level.

9 The black plastic flanged bushing goes on the brake pedal connection to the master cylinder rod or booster.

CONGRATULATIONS! You’re done!

Granada Disc Brake Conversion

This disc brake swap will work on all 64-1/2 to 73 Ford Mustangs as well as any other mid size Ford using the same type of front suspension.

Part One  –  What You Will Need

Start out with removal of your drum brake spindles and outer tie rods, master cylinder and brake distribution block.  This is a good time to replace upper and lower ball joints if needed.  Upper A-frame removal is not required unless you will also be replacing the upper A-frame bushings or spring saddle perch. Spring removal is NOT REQUIRED unless the upper A-frames are to be removed

The disc brakes shown here are from a 1975 to 1980 Granada, Versailles, Monarch, Maverick, or Comet.  The ones you find in a wrecking yard probably will not look this clean.  Look for rotors that are marked with MIN. THICKNESS .810″, and a single
piston caliper that is attached with a sliding retainer held in place by one bolt, usually with an allen head.  All the above cars are REAR STEER, meaning they have the tie rods located aft of the front wheels, instead of in front of the wheels.  
Note:  Versailles disc brakes use a larger diameter lower ball joint stud, and require the use of an adapter to be able to bolt up to the Mustang lower ball joint. (more on that later)
Caution: There are other Ford brakes that LOOK similar to the Granada
discs, but have rotors that are 1″ thick or thicker.  Those will not fit a Mustang.   If you have a set of brakes that look similar to these, but has a rotor thickness of 1″ or more, those brakes will NOT work on your Mustang or other classic Ford.

Granada Disc Brakes
Caliper Attaching Hardware
Granada Proportioning Valve (See Below for Plumbing Diagram)

You will need the following parts from the donor car:
Spindles, backing plates, rotors, calipers, caliper mounting hardware (which consists of flat spring, slide clamp and attaching bolt), the rubber brake hoses, the frame brackets where the rubber hoses mate up to the steel lines at the frame rail, the threaded flare nuts from that same fitting (they are a unique size), the proportioning valve along with all it’s flare nuts intact, and any steel brake lines that have the coiled wire wrapped around them.  The coiled wrap will be removed and installed on your new steel lines, so just cut the tubes with side cutter pliers for quick and easy removal.  Same for the
proportioning valve.  Do not try to loosen the flare nuts while removing the valve, just cut the tubes about 1″ away from the valve.  That way, you can use a box end wrench to remove the nuts when you get home. Take note of which fittings on the valve went to where.  If the donor car has no proportioning valve available, get one from any mid sized Ford car or Mustang with front discs and rear drums.  Try to get the valve from a car that still has brake fluid in the system to avoid purchasing one with dried out seals.

You will NOT need the ball joints or the upper a-frame.  In some cases the outer tie rod ends can be utilized, get them only if in perfect condition.  If your car is a 65-66, 6 cylinder Mustang, don’t bother getting the tie rods.
More on the tie rod issue later…

New Brake Parts that you may consider when doing this installation:
Pads, Rebuilt calipers, Rotors, Hoses, Wheel bearings, Cotter pins, Hardware, Tie rods (see Part Eight)

You may also need Tie rod adapter bushings (see Part Eight)

Also required will be brake fluid, master cylinder (if being replaced) and new steel brake lines.

Tools will include various sizes of SAE sockets and box end wrenches, SAE inverted flare tools, allen wrench, adjustable wrench, needle nose pliers, SAE inverted flare tube flare tools, and possibly a small tubing bender.

Part Two  –  Modification of Steering Stops

Part Three  –  Disc Brake Installation

Part Four  –  Proportioning Valve Installation

 

Part Five  –  Master Cylinder Installation

Use your original Mustang pushrod with manual disc brakes when using Maverick master cylinder
Front bowl = rear brakes
Rear bowl = front brakes
Bench bleed master cylinder before installing.

To remove the old pushrod from the master cylinder clamp the pushrod into a vise and pry against the ears of the master cylinder with 2 screwdrivers. It’s tight, but it will come out!

Part Six  –  Brake Line Flaring and Installation

These various sized fittings are available at PepBoys.  They have the correct ends for the Maverick Master Cylinder. FedHillUSA also carries any size tube nut you could ever need.

I HATE ADAPTERS!  They look like a botched installation and provide more potential for leaks.

Best place to mount the hose bracket is mid-way front to rear under the control arm. The hose is held to this bracket with a spring clip.

Part Seven  –  Brake Bleeding

Brakes won’t bleed properly?  Be sure you have the calipers on the right side of the car. The bleeder screws should point straight rearward, NOT UP…

Part Eight  –  Tie Rod Installation

You will need outer tie rod adapters in order to get the spindle to accept the tie rods and it be tight and able to accept a wheel alignment.
If you are running a 65-66 Mustang then you want these adapters: TRB-65GR
If you are running a 67-69 Mustang then you want these adapters: TRB-67GR

Part Ten  –  Alignment

65-66 with Granada spindles – stock A-frames       Caster 0       Camber 0    Toe 1/8″ IN
”                       ”                             Lowered ”                   +3                      0               0

67-73 use stock specs, unless lowered.  Lowered cars need more caster typically.

This is not gospel, but I have had good luck with these.  If you have a 65-66 that is lowered, you WILL be able to tell
these spindles steer differently and are prone to severe bumpsteer.  That is the reason for the zero toe.  If you have
a choice, use original, same year as car,  Mustang spindles and disc brakes.  The car will steer and corner better.

Convert Points to Electronic Ignition - Duraspark II

Conversion From Points to FORD Duraspark II Electronic Ignition

The white wire connection is not absolutely necessary, but it’s function is to energize the “retard while starting” function of the Duraspark II module. When cranking the engine, the module actually retards the spark so the engine can crank easier. This allows you to run additional initial advance.

What Will My Ride Height Be?

When building your Mustang, one of the most important aspects in the way it looks is the ride height.  The following pictures show different Mustang stances and explain what components are required to get that stance.  Tire size also comes into play in getting “the look”, so whenever possible the tire size is also listed.

For consistency, regardless of tire size, ride height is defined as the vertical distance from the center of the wheel to the fender opening lip.

Owner:  Steve Wilkes 1965 289 V-8
Front 12-5/8″  Mustangs Plus 620# 1″ lowering coils with 1/3 coil cut off
Shelby 1″ drop upper a-frames
Rear  13-1/4″  Mustangs Plus Performance 4 leafs with mid-eye bushings
Stock type shackles with heavy duty rubber bushings
1/2″ thick lowering blocks
Wheels  15 x 7 with 4-1/4″ backspacing
Tires  BF Goodrich 225-60×15

 Owner:  Arjan Helmantel  1965 289 V-8

Front  12-1/4″    600# 1″ Drop TMC Springs with Shelby Relocated A-Frames
Rear  12-3/4″   165#/in TMC 4 Leaf HD
Wheels  15 x 7  American Racing Torque Thrust D  3-3/4″  backspacing
Tires       205-60HRx15 Goodrich Comp T/A


Owner:  Gary Mandarino

1965    289 V-8
Front 14-1/2″ Stock new springs
Rear  14-1/2″   Stock 4 leaf new springs
Wheels  unspecified
Tires   205-70×14

Owner:  Steve Wilkes   1966  351 V-8  (Aluminum Heads)
Front   12-1/2″  Mustangs Plus 620# 1″ Lowering Coils , (cut 1/3 coil)
Shelby 1″ drop upper a-frames
Rear   13-1/4″   Ford Replacement  4 leafs
Stock type shackles with heavy duty rubber bushings
1″ thick lowering blocks (Versailles rear axle)
Wheels   15 x 7 with 4-9/16″ backspacing (custom built)
Tires   Michelin 215-60×15  (Have since been replaced with 225-60×15 T/A’s that look much better)

Owner:  Hank Snow   1966   289 V-8, T-10 4 Spd
Front 13″          Mustangs Plus 620# 1″ lowering coils
Shelby 1″ drop upper a-frames, KYB shocks
Rear   14-1/4″    Mustangs Plus Performance 5 leafs with mid-eye bushings
KYB shocks
Wheels   (F) 15 x 7 Centerline  with 4-1/4″ backspacing  (R)  15 x 8 Centerline with 4.5″ b.s.
Tires   BF Goodrich (F)  225-60×15   (R)  245-60×15

Owner:  Rudi Marczi   1968  289 V-8, C-4 Automatic
Front   13″         Canadian Mustang stock spring, 1/4 coil removed
Rear   13-3/8″   Canadian Mustang standard replacement  leafs
Wheels   15 x 7 Shelby 10-Spoke 4-1/4″ backspacing
Tires   BF Goodrich (F)  205-60×15   (R)  225-60×15


Owner:  Steven Wolf   1966 351W V-8, with Iron Heads

Front   12″          Relocated TCP A-arms, Mustangs Plus GT coils…Also has Rack & Pinion Steering
Gabriel Strider Shocks
Rear   13″         Mustangs Plus 4 leaf Reverse Eye leaf springs
Gabriel Strider Shocks
Wheels   15 x 7 FORD  Steel with Dog Dish Caps and Trim Rings w/4″ backspacing
Tires   Dunlop  M40-D2  225-60xZR15

Owner:  Dick Ostrosky  1968 Cougar XR7  302 V-8, A/C, alum. intake
Front   13-1/2″  620# 1″ lowering coils  Shelby 1″ drop upper a-frames
Rear  14-1/4″  Stock original springs
Wheels Original Cougar styled steel 14×7 w/ 4″ b.s.
Tires   225-70×14 Kelly

Owner:  Jerry Shelby  1965 Mustang 2+2  408W stroker V-8,  Alum. heads,

T-5 Transmission
Front  11-1/2″   Eibach  lowering coils  Global West Negative Roll  upper a-frames (2″ lowered), Koni Shocks
Rear   13″   5 leaf  springs with Wilwood discs, Koni Shocks
Wheels Halibrand 16×8 with 4-1/2″ backspacing.
Tires  225-50xZR16 Goodrich Comp T/A   

This page will be updated as I receive more information.

If you have pictures, mail to: info@mustangsteve.com
Include side view (and detail view of each wheel up close if possible)
State whether you want your name used
Year of car, engine (and whether it has aluminum heads or other lightweight stuff) type of springs, shackles, a-frame mods,
wheel size with backspacing, tire size.
And don’t forget to state the dimensions!

Build a MustangSteve 400HP 351 Windsor

BLOCK, CRANK, PISTONS AND RODS

1969 351 WINDSOR BLOCK 4.030″ BORE
STOCK 1969 CRANK, .010/.010  3.500″ STROKE
1992 TRUCK RODS, RWORKED, STD
ARP #150-6004 ROD BOLTS
CLEVITE 77 MAIN BEARINGS
CLEVITE 77 ROD BEARINGS
TRW L-2446-F FORGED PISTONS +.030″
HASTINGS MOLY RINGS
MACHINE WORK  –  BALANCE ASSY, FLYCUT PISTONS

HEADS

EDELBROCK #6025 1.90/1.60 PERFORMER RPM ALUMINUM HEADS
ARP #154-3603 HEAD BOLTS
FEL PRO #1011-1 HEAD GASKETS QTY 2

CAMSHAFT

COMPETITION CAMS 1331-16 MAGNUM ROLLER ROCKER ARMS
CRANE #44306-1 RETROFIT ROLLER LIFTER KIT
CRANE #44630-16 RETROFIT PUSH RODS
CRANE #449631 RETROFIT ROLLER CAM 282/290 220/228/.542/.563 112LC
EDELBROCK DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING CHAIN #EDL-7820INDUCTION & FUEL

WEILAND STEALTH INTAKE MANIFOLD, PORT MATCHED
CARTER #M-6904 MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP
HOLLEY 700CFM DOUBLE PUMPER CARB
COBRA OVAL ALUMINUM AIR CLEANEREXHAUST

HEDDMAN #88660-6 HEADERS (LONG) jet coatedLUBRICATION

ARP #154-7901 OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT
COBRA ALUMINUM OIL PAN #A6675E
MELLING M83HV HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMPIGNITION

MSD BILLET ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR
MSD -6A IGNITION
MALLORY PROMASTER COIL
FORD MOTORSPORT DISTRIBUTOR GEAR #M-12390-F
TAYLOR BLACK IGNITION WIRES W/ 115 DEGREE BOOTSCOOLING

MILDON ALUMINUM WATER PUMP
STANT THERMOSTAT #0-33342-05410 (180)MISCELLANEOUS

ARP STAINLESS STEEL 6 POINT ENGINE BOLT KIT
FEL PRO GASKET SET (LESS HEADS/REAR MAIN)
FORD D2AZ6379B FLYWHEEL NOLTS (FOR FLEXPLATES) QTY 6
FLEXPLATE  157 tooth
SUM-163594 BALANCER TIMING TAPEHOW MUCH DOES ALL THAT STUFF COST?
Plan on about $5,000 plus the labor to assemble and install.

Make Your Own SHELBY-style Traction Bars

Generator to Alternator Wiring Schematic

How-To Convert GENERATOR to ALTERNATOR Wiring Schematic

Just follow the simple diagram and remember….DON’T LET THE SMOKE OUT!!!!!

How To Install a New 65-66 Mustang Tail Panel

FYIFORD Commonly Used Acronyms

FYIFORD
Commonly Used
ACRONYMS
MustangSteve's FYI FORD Message Board
A Code - A 4 barrel 289 Mustang
AFAIK - As far as I know
AOD - Automatic Overdrive Transmission
A/T - Automatic Transmission
BDB - MustangSteve's Annual Birthday Bash
BFH - A rather large hammer
BTW - By The Way
C Code - A 2 barrell 289 Mustang
FYI - For Your Information
IIABDFI - If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It (variation...ABDFI )
IIRC - If I recall correctly
IMHO - In my humble opinion
JMO - Just my opinion
K Code - A 289 High Performance (Hipo) Mustang
LOL - Laughing Out Loud
M/T - Manual transmission
N/M - No Message... Just read the title
P/B - Power Brakes
POS - Previous Owner Syndrome (sometimes means something
else, but either way is usually a result of previous owner's
inadequate or inappropriate repairs or mods.)
P/S - Power Steering
ROFL - Really Laughing
T5 - Five Speed manual transmission, typically 87-93 vintage
T Code - A six cylinder Mustang
TPNP - This Post Needs Pictures
WYAI - While You Are At It
WYAIT - While You Are In There

And, of course... ACTUALLY... means the writer believes you
are in error, and you are about to be set straight!

Know of More? Email  STEVE
And I will add them.
Remember, If you type in ALL CAPS, it gives
the appearance that you are YELLING..
(Unless you are BILLY WALTON)
Posted by Moe on 1/13/2006, 1:50 pm, in reply to
Yeah, But can anyone use all those acronyms in one post?

The T Code, A Code, C Code and K Code, AFAIK, could be equipped with A/T, although, IIRC, some had M/T. FYI,
AOD retrofits all codes even without using a BFH. BTW (IMHO), a T5 will work as well, but if you get the wrong one and
it breaks during a burnout, you will see me ROFL.
Some say the hobby is all about barrels of fun (BEG), some say it’s about what you want; P/B, P/S, even - LOL -
A/C. Actually, what it really comes down to, JMO, is IIABDFI. And when it is broke, there will always be tons of POS WYAI
things you'll find WYAIT, especially when $$ are short (ROFL).

But the REALLY important thing that EVERYONE who ventures into this hobby will soon know is the Sacred Law of Guru MustangSteve. Any automotive repair or restoration will take twice as long and cost twice as much as originally planned, even after careful prior consideration of MustangSteve's LAW!

May the Horse be with you always.