Door Hinge Installation Instructions, Upper Hinge Diagram, Lower Door Hinge Diagram, 1965-67 Mustang Cast Hinge Kit Instructions

Q: How do I know if my door hinges actually need rebuilding?

The classic test: with the door fully open, grab the outer edge and rock it up and down. If you feel noticeable play at the hinges (not just a sagging door due to a worn striker or weatherstrip), the hinge pins and bushings are worn and it's a hinge job, not just an adjustment. Other signs owners report on Mustang forums: the door drops when opened, is hard to latch, or has started chipping paint against the fender or rear quarter.

Q: Can this be rebuilt without pulling the door off the car?

It's easiest to unbolt the hinge from the door and/or body and rebuild it on the bench, since pressing the old pins out and the new ones in needs even, controlled pressure -- doing it with the hinge still hanging in the door jamb makes that much harder to do without bending something. Most builders remove the door (or at least unbolt the hinge) for this job.

Q: What's actually in the kit, and does it require drilling or welding?

Each kit includes 4 machined hinge pins, 4 machined steel tubes, and 8 oil-impregnated bushings. The grease zerk is a separate fitting that threads into the end of each pin (through a washer) during assembly -- it isn't pre-installed at the factory or added by drilling through the side of the pin. Per MustangSteve's official instructions, the 1965-67 Mustang cast hinge kit requires drilling a 7/16" hole in the hinge to receive the new bronze bushings but no welding, while the stamped hinge kit (67-73) requires drilling out the hinge for the new tube and pressing in the bushings, then welding the new tube and pin in place. Check the installation instructions for your hinge style before starting.